Seasoning the Seasons

Kariyasu, kuchinashi, and moegi -all are Japanese words for colors. The Japanese language has a lot of words for expressing subtle tints. Many have their origin in Kyoto and are still very much alive in the speech of the former capital. Historians suggest the Japanese did not make such rigid color distinctions in ancient times but the change began when imports arrived from China and Korea, and the Japanese sensitivity to color then blossomed as a variety of new tints were produced here as well.

Kakunodate is the "Little Kyoto" of Tohoku, a castle town and popular tourist destination where the streets are lined with traditional-style buildings dating from the Edo Period (17th to mid-19th century). We meet people who adhere to the old ways of life, such as descendents of an old samurai family who still dwell in the Ishiguro Manor, a centuries old samurai house now open to public, and a lady descended from the Satake Kita clan that once ruled Kakunodate. The town is liveliest during the autumn festival when great floats are made to clash against each other in the parade. The bearers need power, courage and skill to triumph. We recorded the lives and traditions of samurai, merchant, farmer and lordly families on a 6 month sojourn in a place where distinctive old customs are still very much alive.

The folklorist, Kunio Yanagita, wrote his "Tono Monogatari" (Tales of Tono) about a century ago. The book related how mysterious beings such as the kappa river goblins, the zashikiwarashi child spirits, mountain gods and ghosts had their willful way, reporting the events as eye-witness accounts and present-day happenings. It led its readers - mostly dwellers of the plains facing the first waves of modernization - to the psychological heart of the humble Japanese people, hemmed in as they were by mountains and rivers. Today, though, 100 years later, what has become of those old beliefs in the amazing creatures and gods described in the book? We follow the lives of people in Tono for a year, from their faith in the tutelary Oshirasama gods made from staves of mulberry wood to the rites of the Bon Festival of the Dead, rediscovering the old Japanese ways of thinking and reverence for the things that surpass human powers.